Seeking some rest and recreation in the hidden corner of Batam

Bali All TRAVEL-A little peace: Nongsa, on the coast of Batam Island, provides a place to get away from it all for a while, to enjoy comfortable resorts, water activites and restful ocean views. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

Let’s start by being brutally honest: At first glance, Batam Island does not really appear a great vacation proposition.

Parts of the island are best described as an eyesore, with highly utilitarian industrial and commercial premises stretching over large swathes of the land.

And let’s be frank about the land itself, too – flat for one thing, with soil – exposed through the island’s numerous excavations – in an unappealing orangey-yellowish color that looks infertile and grubby.

Now we’ve got that out of the way, there is one more thing to add: Better things lie ahead.

As you travel from the island’s Hang Nadim airport to the area known as Nongsa, the industrial and commercial buildings – and that grubby-looking soil – gradually give way to dense thickets of shrubs and low-lying plants.

Keep going. This unkempt shrubbery then gives way to something else – to signs of humanity taming this wilderness and making it into something lovely and fresh. You have arrived at the dreamy vacation area of Nongsa, Nongsa is in the northern coastal region of Batam Island, with attractive inlets and beaches that add up to an idyllic and tranquil setting for some rest and recreation. There are golf courses here for those so interested, but it is much more the coast, the beaches and the resorts along the waterfront that attract visitors.

The resorts at Nongsa range from the pristine and ultramodern to the more traditional and tropical made from timber and bamboo with thatched roofs. Some of the modern architecture is impressive but those who find all that concrete and steel clinical and cold with may prefer the more “traditional” architecture with its natural materials.

Regardless of the style of architecture, the common theme here is the sea and the Strait of Singapore that Nongsa looks out onto. The shores and skyscrapers of Singapore are visible in the distance – no prizes for guessing why Singaporeans account for many of the holidaymakers.

Singapore is but a 45-minute ferry ride away, making it all too easy for those city-dwellers to escape their crowded city-state for the tranquility of Batam’s resort, the ferry dropping them at the very well-constructed and -managed ferry terminal known as Nongsapura.

Thanks to Nongsapura, getting to and from the resorts is easy and comfortable, with ferries setting off at regular intervals to destinations in both Singapore and Malaysia. These speedy ferries deftly negotiate busy waters, weaving around the huge cargo ships and tankers that pass through the strait. Before all that, though, comes the Nongsa River.

The Nongsa River connects the island to the strait. Like much of the rest of Batam Island, it is surrounded by dense vegetation, which lends it a distinctly wild air. Trips upriver to view exotic birds and wild monkeys are possible, although most people find it hard to drag themselves away from the coast.

One of those coastal attractions is Nongsa’s impressive and expansive marina open to private vessels. Otherwise, there are plenty of watery activities to help while away the holidays: fishing, snorkeling, parasailing, water-skiing, jet-skiing and banana boating.

The downside of all these water activities is the water itself – or more particularly the clarity of the water. It is perhaps only to be expected that with this strait being a major marine thoroughfare – dozens of massive ships pass through the Strait and often time clouds of exhaust fumes can be seen belching from their enormous engines – the water is going to be on the murky side of pristine.

The problem of pollution is also evident in the work of the cleaners raking the beaches each morning, burying the less desirable offerings that have been washed up on the shore.

Never mind – there is no need to swim in the sea, as the resorts all have their own swimming pools replete with fountains and waterfalls, and a mix of depths to please everyone from children and the more serious swimmer. Given this, the sea may be better left alone as a backdrop for the resorts.

Otherwise, the environment in Nongsa is generally clean and well kept, creating great benefits for the local wildlife. In the thick lush forests, visitors can see exotic and colorful birds going about their business of foraging and nesting. At night, bats sweep across the sky, gorging themselves on the abundant fruit hanging from the trees.

Nongsa and its resorts may be quite different from the rest of Batam Island, but are created ideally for rest and recreation. The detail in the construction and management of the hotels and resorts means taking a vacation here can be very pleasing and satisfying – regardless of first impressions./TJP

Norway in a nutshell

Aurlandsfjord (JP/Arief Suhardiman)

Bali All Travel-"You're so lucky!" a fellow traveler from Bergen, Norway, told me moments before the train that was to take me and my companion entered the station of Myrdal to start my "Norway in a nutshell" adventure.

"The weather was really bad yesterday. There was a rainstorm so we couldn't go anywhere. But now the sun is shining and the sky so clear," said the woman, pointing at the panorama over the railcar window pane.

Upon hearing that, I couldn't help but smile. Jokingly, I responded to her and her two friends, "Our presence makes the sun shine." My comment set them off laughing. "Yes, yes... now you can see our beautiful landscape. I hope you'll enjoy it. Have a nice trip!" she remarked.

Our chat had to be cut short, as we were rushing for another train that would carry us to Flam, a town famous for its picturesque railway line. Out in the sunny, yet brisk pre-winter day, we sought information about our next train.

After being notified by station officers that the Flam-bound train was departing within 15 minutes, we hurriedly boarded one of the dark green carriages.

Not long after that, the series of coaches began to move ahead. Around a hundred passengers, mostly comprising tourists, were in high spirits despite the fact that some of them, like us, had just done the five-hours train journey from Oslo.

Over the train's loudspeaker, a woman began describing the stunning landscape along the trip from Myrdal to Flam. Sadly, much of what was said was indiscernible among the steady rumble of train engines.

In no more than five minutes, the passengers leapt from their bright red seats to line the carriage windows. All eyes gazed down from the height of 886 meters above sea level, onto a magnificent vista of steep valleys, snowcapped mountains and rocky waterfalls.

Some of the phalanx of amateur photographers opened their windows to get a better picture, without those annoying pane reflections. The clickity-clack of the train's wheels over the tracks created a distinctive ambience adding to my enjoyment of the awe-inspiring natural beauty.

The train slowed several times as we passed particularly gorgeous scenes. It was then, it seemed, that one side of the carriage was standing room only as camera shutters whirred and clicked, forever capturing the remarkable scenery.

Kjosfossen waterfall (JP/Arief Suhardiman)

As the train crept along near the Kjosfossen falls at the height of 93 meters, it was announced that we were allowed to get off and feel the cool spray that rose from the base of the falls as a fine mist, and settled on our faces.

The journey passes through a number of tunnels, and each time the train would burst into the light, revealing amazing views to be relished by the travelers who had been kept in darkened suspense.

After an hour, the 20-kilometer Myrdal - Flam scenic route was over. Once in Flam, we were guided to the conveniently located (adjacent) port and onto a waiting ship to cruise along Norway's famous fjords.

Aurlandsfjord & Naerofjord

Most of the passengers chose the outdoor seats aboard the vessel, Skagastol, to watch the marine panoramas as we cruised through the fjords. Some struggled to secure their best places for the rare spectacle.

The ship soon left Flam for Gudvangen. On its way, this boat was coasting along Aurlandsfjord and Naerofjord, which are the pride of Norwegian people. They constitute a conservation zone and have been on UNESCO's World Heritage List since 2005.

A fjord is formed when a glacier retreats after carving its typical U-shaped valley allowing the sea to fill the valley floor. This forms a narrow, steep sided inlet (sometimes deeper than 1,300 meters) connected to the sea.

Slicing through the turquoise seawater, the cold wind numbed our faces. Protected by my thick wind breaker I managed two hours out on the deck, snapping the splendid features of marine beauty comparable to the ice kingdoms of fairy tales, my mind began to wander back to the days of Vikings and the Ice Age.

The fjord, at times, soared to dizzying heights either side of us, dwarfing our ship and making me feel rather insignificant. The coral mountains, hundreds of meters high, were colored a mottled gray, and partially covered by greenery.

At certain places snow was trapped in crevices. Waterfalls carved into the sides of the fjords over thousands of years gushed down spectacularly. I began to wonder where the water pouring through steep coral mountain slopes had come from.

Away from the fjords, I noticed very neatly arranged housing units of simple architecture, reflecting harmony between rural settlements and their natural environment. But in the several villages we sailed past, I could hardly see any people around.

At Aurlandsfjord port with hundreds of houses in its vicinity, I only spotted three people: a boat passenger and two port officers. Probably due to Norway's small population of 4.5 million, coupled with the approaching winter, keeping people indoors.

The fascinating scenery stretching throughout the journey along the fjords, where the Vikings once roamed, ended in Gudvangen.

A view from Stalheimskleiva (JP/Arief Suhardiman)

Stalheimskleiva Road

Voss was our final destination, and we took the bus. Pressed by time, we had to hurry.

Punctual is the most appropriate word to describe the public transport here. It's praiseworthy although the interval is short, no more than 15 minutes, forcing visitors to rush before it's too late. I chose to sit on the front seat.

Full to capacity, the bus began the trip to Voss. It plied the route via the valley of Naeroydalen. The sightseeing tour gave a heart-pounding experience as the bus was passing Stalheimskleiva, known for its extremely steep road (as if it was sloping by almost 40 degrees!) with 13 hairpin bends.

Unsurprisingly, this is lauded as one of the steepest stretches of road in Northern Europe.

"Wooowww...!" was the humming cry of several passengers. Nearly all those on the bus were looking ahead with their hands gripping the seats in front. I just smiled at their reflex movements, squeezing the seats as if trying to apply the brakes.

It requires a lot of skill and prime vehicle conditions to pass the road. It's scary to think what would have happened if any of the requirements were not met, but I managed to shunt that thought out of my mind.

The bus crept slowly along the narrow asphalt road. In spite of the strong heartbeats induced, the surrounding landscape was too wonderful to miss. The bus also paused for a while before Sivlefossen and Stalheimsfossen waterfalls, allowing us to steady our hearts.

This is only open from May to September. During the winter months buses between Gudvangen and Voss have to take another way.

I was reminded of what the woman from Bergen said in the beginning of this journey. I was lucky to be able to make the trip by mid-October so I could experience the sensation of this well known road.

After about an hour and a half, we arrived at Voss railway station. And we only had about 15 minutes to board the train that would take us back to Oslo.

I spent the little time left to go to a restaurant where I bought a salmon sandwich to relieve my hunger.

After everything was ready we all got on the train bound for the capital of the country boasting its slogan "See this small, but great country!"

Norwegian Embassy in Jakarta has invited The Jakarta Post to visit Norway recently.

The Gili Islands

Bali All Travel-The Gili Islands are a traveller’s haven located in the northwest tip of Lombok in Indonesia. The three islands boast pristine white-sand beaches and clear turquoise waters, and are a Mecca for beach and sun lovers worldwide. Small cafes and restaurants line the beaches, playing relaxing reggae music and serving cold drinks to the visitor. For those who wish to relax and enjoy beautiful landscape, Gili Islands is not a place to be missed.

To get to the Gili Islands, visitors must take a ferry or boat from Lombok or from Bali. The islands are a haven for those who wish to get away from it all, and enjoy life in a simple fashion. Motorized cars are banned from the Gilis, and getting around is restricted to horse-drawn carts or by foot. Getting between the three islands is done by various boats that plough the way throughout the day.

Snorkelling and diving are two very popular activities on the islands, with an amazing array of marine life to enjoy. Beautiful coral reefs teeming with fish are a site, and turtles and rays make frequent visits as well. There are several dive operators on the islands, and mask and snorkel sets can be rented on the beach.

Other than swimming and diving, there is not much to do on the Gili Islands. This is a destination for those who wish to get away from the hustle ad bustle of the cities, and relax to the full. For many these islands are a peaceful sanctuary; no traffic, beautiful beaches, good food, sunshine and clear waters.

Termez, Uzbekistan An Architectural Wonderland

Termez Archeological Bali All Travel-Museum gallery of stone architecture with objects from Ancient Bactria and the period of Alexander the Great.

Upon finally entering the Surkhadarya region of Uzbekistan, the air is noticeably warmer and the wheat-fields are a sea of gold. Here the harvest comes a full month before the rest of Uzbekistan.

To the west lies Turkmenistan and to the east, Tajikistan. Abror, my driver, maintains a course due south for Termez. Pine trees fringe the road and the carnations and wild roses are in full bloom.

Termez, located on the banks of the Oxus River between Uzbekistan and Afghanistan has attracted a veritable who’s who of history through its gates. Hakimai-Tirimizi, Genghis Khan, Alexander the Great, Amir Timur and Prince Babur have all passed through Termez, leaving their stamp on the city often referred to as the “Motherload of Antiquities”.

The mausoleum of Hakimai-Tirimizi is a place where Muslims from all over Asia make the pilgrimage to one of Islam’s holy sites.

Considered the crossing point into northern Bactria and the Hindu Kush since time immemorial, Termez is also recognized as the capital of the Greco-Bactrian Empire. Later, when the Kushan Empire solidified, trade between the Indus and Oxus rivers increased and the Silk Road’s traffic through Termez became greater than ever.

Before departing Tashkent for this trip, I pay a visit to Mr. Alisher Shamsiev, deputy chairman for international relations with Uzbektourism, the government’s department of tourism. He introduced me to Professor Zia Ul-Haq, who has spent more than 20 years traveling the Silk Road researching the origins of Buddhism in Central Asia, a contact that proved most valuable.

“The treasure trove of Buddhism in Uzbekistan is in the valley of Surkhadarya region,” Professor Zia explains. “Buddhism in these parts was influenced from the northern parts of India, present day Peshawar, then known as Gandhara.”

“[Termez] was an important Transoxian city of the Bactrian Kingdom constructed at a strategic point,” Professor Zia continues. “If you look at the geographical situation, right at the point where the Oxus [Amu Dayra] River is very narrow, this is the gateway to India. All the armies from the north invaded from here. The mughals started in the Ferghana Valley and passed here, the Aryans also entered at this point.”

It is Wednesday, and Muslims from all over Central Asia are making the pilgrimage to the mausoleum of Hakimai-Tirimizi, an important Islamic holy site. Tirimizi, a famous Sufi dervish and saint of Termez, was also the author of a number of compositions of mystic philosophy and was the founder of the dervish order. “Hakimi” is considered one of the 12 sects of mysticism.

With the banks of the Oxus River as a background, I was shooting photographs of an imam and his young followers when suddenly I was invited by a group of men to sit at their chaikhana (tea house) for some tea. The head of the clan, wearing a baby blue jacket, a white turban and proudly sporting a long, snow-white beard, said that his family had made the pilgrimage from Sherobod, several hours drive away. There were 47 members in his family and they had brought a sheep to be sacrificed and cooked into a plov (a local stew) in the communal kitchen. I called over Abror and we stayed with the family enjoying the food and the warm hospitality of the Uzbek people.

Interestingly, it is not only Muslim pilgrims that flock to Termez to worship; it also attracts also large number of Buddhist pilgrims, drawn to Termez’s ancient monasteries and stupas of Fayaz Tepe and Kara Tepe, both of which are considered holy sites.

Fayaz Tepe, 2,000 years old Buddhist monastery built overlooking the present day Afghan border, played an important role in the transmission of Buddhism from India to China.

“The Buddhist monasteries of Fazy Tepe and Kara Tepe have recently been re-excavated and undergone a lot of restoration work,” Professor Zia informs me.

The site of Kara Tepe is under a restricted radar station and can be accessed only with special permission from the Tashkent Foreign Ministry. I was denied access. Once, monks wishing to find spiritual awareness could look out over a vast delta at the Hindu Kush and Oxus River. Now, razor wire and electric fences, minefields and of course, a river patrol greet the eye. Welcome to Uzbekistan’s front line of defence against al-Qaeda and militant Islamic extremists from bordering Afghanistan.

Considered by most experts as the finest and most unique museum in all of Central Asia, the Termez Archaeological Museum is alone worth the entire trip. The amount of information the museum contains is incredible to say the least. You could spend days inside the museum and still find something new to capture your imagination. There are nine main halls and a gallery of stone architecture, a library of thousands of volumes of ancient maps and books. And in the basement a heavily guarded bank full of coins and other prized antiquities from the Hellenistic period. A large relief map of the Surkhadarya region shows reference points to the different periods of history in the region.

The Zumala Tower, built by Buddhist monks and standing 16 meters, is the oldest construction left in Uzbekistan.

Guiding me through the museum is director Ismoil Botirov who has served his post proudly for eight years now. His enthusiasm is contagious as he leads me to the Stone Age display in the first hall, then through the separate halls of other periods: Bronze, Ancient Bactria, Northern Bactria in the period of Alexander the Great and Hellenic States, Kushan Epoch, Early Middle Ages, Amir Timur and Timurids Epoch, and Khanates Epoch. Coins, textiles, statues and tools add life and color to the museum.

“Predominately a Turkic people, the Uzbeks have been significantly influenced through the immigration of both Mongol and Persian races,” Botirov says. “However, the invasion of Mongol troops under the authority of Genghis Khan inflicted enormous damage on the city of Termez.”

For my last night in Termez, Abror guided me to a local restaurant. There the hostess, smiling with a mouth full of gold-capped teeth, escorts us to a dense grove of pine trees where a chaikhana full of carpets and blankets stands in peaceful solitude.

An Uzbek family, who has made the pilgrimage to Termez and brought a sheep to be sacrificed, worship at the Hakimai-Tirmizi mausoleum.

A pot of black tea and still hot, round bread, baked like a wheel, was brought out.

With the wind rustling the branches of the pine trees it is cold eating out under the stars. Smoke billows from the brazier like a fog through the night air. We relaxed quietly, each absorbed in our own thoughts by the light of torches, much like the caravans following the Silk Road must have done centuries ago.

For the historian, aficionado of Islamic and Buddhist architecture, student of culture and passionate explorer, Uzbekistan offers a splendid experience of the fabled Silk Road and the ancient cities along its sprawling paths.

— Photos by Robert Davis

Integrated spiritual tourism at Mt. Selok, Srandil

Bali All Travel--A view of Cilacap’s coastline from the top of Mount Selok. (JP/Agus Maryono)

Mount Selok in Karangbenda village, Adipala district, Cilacap regency, Central Java, comprises more then 126 hectares of land and rises 150 meters above sea level.

Located along Cilacap's coastal area, the mountain is a perfect lookout spot to view the waves of the South Sea breaking on the foothills below.

About one kilometer to the east of Mount Selok, stands Mount Srandil. Although the two mountains are relatively of equal height, Mount Srandil comprises less than half the land area that Mount Selok does.

In the past, mounts Selok and Srandil make one tour package that blends the amazing beauty of the mountains and the sea. In addition, these two mountains are also very popular as places for Kejawen (Javanese) spiritual pilgrimage.

Unfortunately, the two mountains are now barren as most of the large trees that were once found there were felled illegally between 1999 and 2000. The mountain areas are no longer green and cool and only a number of caves and graves that the pilgrims hold sacred are left.

Mounts Selok and Srandil have been closed as tourist sites since the year 2000. The Jakarta Post, accompanied by a staff member of the local district government, toured the area to observe the many tourist facilities that had been damaged and neglected.

A number of bathrooms and a prayer house in the location were found in disrepair and looked like ghost houses. The paved road crossing Mount Selok area was also in a very condition.

"Given the present condition, we are trying to change the tourist concept at Mount Selok and Mount Srandil so that the two mountains will be the centers of integrated spiritual tourism," Budi Santoso, the district head of Adipala, told the Post recently.

According to Budi, the local administration could easily develop Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu and Kejawen spiritual tourism at these two mountains.

"Kejawen spiritual tourism has been very popular for a long time. Islamic and Buddhist spiritual tourism is less popular but the potential for such development is great," Budi said.

At the top of Mount Selok, he added, was the grave of Kyai Somalangu, one of the disciples of Prince Diponegoro. This, he said, made it an appropriate place for a Islamic spiritual tour site.

He said former president "Gus Dur" once went on a pilgrimage to the grave. "This is evidence that Kyai Somalangu was not just anybody," Budi said.

Buddhists, he added, could visit Padepokan Biksu, or a Buddhist monk dormitory, which is also located at the top of Mount Selok, about 2 km from the grave of Kyai Somalangu.

Built two years ago, the Buddhist dormitory is frequently visited by people from Cilacap and other surrounding areas.

The gateway leading to Padepokan Jambe 7 at Gunung Selok was inaugurated by former president Soeharto in 1979. It was here Soeharto went to meditate. (JP/Agus Maryono)

At the gateway to Mount Selok, a temple can be found where followers of Hinduism can perform their religious services.

"This mountain area is a center for Kejawan spiritual tourism. The most popular site is Padepokan Jambe 7, which was built by former president Soeharto in 1979. Soeharto often went to meditate there," said Budi.

There was also Padepokan Jambe 5, he said, which Mayangsari, a famous singer from Purwokerto, was also known to visit for meditation.

Since the demise of president Soeharto, Padepokan Jambe 7 had been neglected, Budi said, adding the local administration wished to once again open it up to the public.

Besides Padepokan Jambe 5 and Jambe 7, there are also caves that are popular among pilgrims, especially on certain days such as Kliwon Friday and Kliwon Tuesday, and in the month of Syura on the Javanese calendar.

These caves, or goa, include Goa Rahayu, Goa Naga Raja, Goa Bolong, Goa Paku Waja, Goa Putih, Goa Grujugan, Goa Tikus, Goa Lawa and Goa Kaendran.

Meanwhile, the grave of Kyai Somalangu, which is located on a former Japanese fort, is usually visited by people from Kebumen, Central Java.

The introduction of spiritual tourism in Mount Selok, Budi said, could restore its position as an alternative tourist site.

Karangbenda village head Umar Said, who is also a community elder in the Mount Selok area, confirmed that Mayangsari had visited the area for meditation purposes.

"Yes, Padepokan Jambe 5 was the special meditation place for Mayangsari," Umar Said said.

When the Post met the gatekeeper of Padepokan Jambe 7, Toto, he confirmed that Soeharto performed his meditation there together with his master, the late Romo Diyat.

"Yes, Romo Diyat built the Padepokan Jambe 7 meditation site in 1979. Until now, it has never been open to the public," said Toto, who lives in a house located behind Padepokan Jambe 7.

Toto said that behind his house, which he inherited from his grandfather, also a gatekeeper, there used to be a helipad.

"Now it is in disrepair as it has not been used for quite some time," he said.

Budi said the local administration would need the participation of investors to develop the two mountain sites into spiritual tourism centers.

Among other things, the roads leading to the two mountains must be resurfaced to attract more visitors, he said./Jp

The friendly Sunset Gecko at Gili Meno

Bali All Travel-The turquoise-colored water on the shore of white sand beach at Gili Meno, backdropped by the vast blue sky. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Frolicking on the beach of a small secluded island might be the holiday dream of most work-drenched men and women.

Away from the noisy, clogged and polluted city streets, one can warm their tired feet on sun-baked sand, swim above coral reefs and laze in a bale bengong (stilted open-air wooden hut) with a good book while feeling the delicious sea breeze against their skin. Looking up, instead of a hazy gray sky, one can see the blue of the sky during the day or the twinkling stars at night.

It is definitely my kind of holiday.

So, when I had the chance to escape the capital, I grabbed it and without hesitation I headed to Lombok's Gili Meno.

Some 30 kilometers east of the tourist island of Bali, Gili Meno is the smallest of the three small sand islands northwest of Lombok, in West Nusa Tenggara.

The bigger Gili Trawangan is more famous and has been dubbed the party island by visitors for its lively night life. Gili Air is the biggest and most populated.

All three islands have no motor vehicles roaming the streets. Horse drawn carts called Cidomo and bicycles are the only means of transportation around.

My companion and I took the night flight from Jakarta to Bali on a Friday night and continued to Trawangan on a fast boat, Saturday morning. From there, we hopped on a chartered boat and arrived at Meno around 11 a.m.

A boat towed on the white sand beach shore. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

When we arrived, little did we know that apart from the expected relaxation time in that tranquil spot, we would be inspired by our environmentally conscious host.

Based on a friend's recommendation, we looked for a place called Sunset Gecko. Our boatman pointed out the resort, which had no signboard but a big, wooden gecko on the wall of the dining place.

Situated on the beach, the resort has a number of small cottages and a main building for dining and the kitchen. The small resort boasts a beautiful garden, with blossoming plants and banana trees. Four comfy bale bengong look over the sea and Gili Trawangan with its tall telecommunications tower.

A Japanese man in his early 40s Hiro Tanaka, who we later found out was the owner of the place, greeted us. After we checked in, we made ourselves comfortable in the shady huts looking out to the sea.

Always intrigued by cool Japanese people, we speculated about Tanaka's story. Looking at the beautiful and tidy resort, I guessed he had a degree in hotel management. My travel partner disagreed, guessing that Tanaka was a well-traveled and highly educated person, who for one reason or another decided to open a resort in a small island in Indonesia.

A two-story wooden house if Sunset Gecko. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

The latter guess was closer to the truth. In one conversation, I found out that he was one of the few idealists who wanted to save the earth, but was obstructed by the politics of the world.

Tanaka is a businessman who set up an alternative energy conversion company with his business partner in Canada. Their product was a patented pyrolysis machine that can transform plastic waste into its former form: oil.

After two years of lobbying city administrations to use the technology without giving money under table, he decided to quit and start making change on a smaller scale.

He grew up in the arid desert of Quwait, while his father worked for a Japanese oil company, Tanaka says that he always dreamed of having a place to share with people.

Three years ago, with friends from different parts of the world, he opened Sunset Gecko, which adheres to eco-friendly practices.

More than often, tourists looking for unspoiled nature to escape the city's pollution end up damaging the environment of their holiday destination. Beautiful spots in Bali have become testament of this, with overdevelopment resulting in beach erosion.

Stilted open art wooden huts are the perfect spots to enjoy the beach. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Tanaka witnessed environmental degradation in Northern Thailand, when six years ago he visited a pristine beach with only two hotels. Three years later, 30 new ones have mushroomed, with mounting piles of garbage.

He says that as he got older he realized that he was part of the problem as he too created garbage. "We always say 'this shouldn't be like this. Oh, you shouldn't burn the plastics' dadadada.

"But when you become an adult, you start to think 'Hey, whose responsibility is this?'. It's easy to say (for an example), *This is the Balinese government's problem'. But then the government doesn't do (anything) and we just keep doing the same troublesome things," he says.

"We just keep messing, creating more garbage, buying chocolate (and throwing away the wrappers), smoking cigarettes and throwing the ash on the street. No, it shouldn't be like this," he says.

So, he opened Sunset Gecko with the hope that he can make a difference.

The resort recycles the water from the dishwashing, laundry, and showers to water the plants. Hiro says that they used a three-step filtration system he learned from reading books and internet sites. He mixed the organic solid residue and organic waste from the kitchen to make compost.

Sunset gecko also makes natural soap in the kitchen. This too he learned from books and the internet. He uses palm and coconut oils for the soap and leaves it to harden as soap bars for six weeks. The soap was one of the highlights of the resort for me. It didn't leave the skin dry and was even great when I used it to wash my hair.

Apparently, the news of the natural soap from Sunset Gecko has traveled around. Two Japanese women that stayed at Gili Trawangan traveled to Gili Meno to purchase the soap.

Tanaka says that it was not for sale as it was for guests to use. Eventually, the women left with two soap bars each.

Blossoming plants next to a wooden hut on the beach. (JP/Prodita Sabarini)

Another impressive part of Gecko was the beautiful garden, with various plants. Hiro says that once local island residents came to the resort and marveled at the banana trees.

"They were really surprised. *A banana tree on the beach? How come?' they asked. I told them that we make compost for the soil and villagers have started to copy that," Tanaka says.

In Gili Meno, where fresh water is shipped from Lombok, eco-friendly practices are not an option. It is a necessity.

While Sunset Gecko is alive and kicking, walking around Gili Meno I found a number of accommodations seemed to be out of business. I passed an abandoned desolate place with an overturned table which seemed to had been a restaurant. Another resort looked closed an empty.

Sunset Gecko has a friendly atmosphere with guests greeting each other and sharing their latest experience in the water. Just dipping to waters in front of the beach of the resort will lead you to nice coral reef and sightings of beautiful sea creatures.

Sea turtles with their ancient look swim around the sea. One guests says that he went snorkeling and saw a Manta ray.

As the sun sets, the sky turns into a purplish color. Guests would hang around the open air dining room with drinks chatting, while sounds of geckos joining the chatter.

As the night grows late, the sight of Trawangan with its colorful lights looked like a big ship. A staff commented that it looked like the Titanic ship.

The best part was lying in a wooden beach chair and looking up to the sky. The stars twinkling and I started to fall asleep. Kontributor- Prodita Sabarini

On the Net:
www.thesunsetgecko.com

The lost fortunes of Kemarau

Happy face: A corpulent, happy Golden Buddha suggests prosperity may lie on the island.

Bali All Travel-Tales about the island of Kemarau, located near Palembang along the 800-kilometer Musi River that meanders across South Sumatra, are abound, with two of the most recounted riches-to-rags stories involving Chinese ships sailing down the river.

Both regrettably tragic tales could easily pass for mythology rather than straight history. The most popular one about this low-level island — often described as “the island that floats the river” as it mysteriously never seems to flood despite heavy rainfall — recounts the story of a Chinese commercial ship sailing down the river after its captain earned a fortune trading goods in Palembang.

Inebriated from celebrating his success, the captain neglects his sailing duties, sinks his ship near the island and spills all his riches into the river there. Since then, people have been searching the river to recover the fortunes believed to have sunk around the island.

In the second tale, which claims to explain how the island came to exist, a Chinese man by the name of Tan Bu An comes to Palembang to study and falls in love with a local princess called Siti Fatimah.

He asks for her hand in marriage but her parents insist upon gifts to allow the wedding to go ahead.

Tan Bu An sends a messenger back to his father in China asking for such gifts to be provided. When the messenger returns with fruits and vegetables, Tan Bu An is so disgusted he throws the gifts into the river, not realizing his father had placed money inside the edible gifts.

Upon finding out about the subterfuge, the enamored Chinese man frantically jumps into the river to find the discarded treasures, but soon drowns. Siti Fatimah, who rushes to the river the instant she finds out her love is lost in the river, also sadly drowns.

It seems however she had a premonition about her fate, so before entering the river’s waters, she leaves a message saying land may form in the place she will die, and the tree that will grow will be one of love.

Spell of beauty: The tall pagoda is the most outstanding feature of the island.

The land that emerged is said to be Kemarau Island. It is also believed the spirit of Tan Bu An remains on the island and over the years, the local Chinese community has consequently come to see Kemarau as a special place.

Nowadays, the main attractions are a Chinese temple and pagoda, built as a result of those mythical stories.

The Taoist temple, dedicated to a deity that protects homes, villages and rural areas on the island, was erected in the 1960s and receives a fairly constant flow of worshippers. Those visitors usually brave the murky waters of the river by slow sampan (a flat-bottomed skiff usually propelled by two short oars) or fast speedboat to make offerings and say their prayers.

A tall Chinese pagoda erected in 2006 is now the most distinctive feature of this otherwise flat island.

Many Chinese figures are represented in relief or statues, with the most alluring of these being a huge venerable golden standing Buddha, seemingly laughing out loud looking across the river. The island tends to fill up during festival times such as the Chinese New Year, but otherwise remains a haven of peace the rest of the year.

A peaceful moment: Worshippers make their offerings and say their prayers at various locations around the island.

Pilgrims — local and sometimes from Singapore and Malaysia — who come to pay respect to their deities, leaving the sweet smell of their burning incense sticks to waft across the island.

How much truth there is to the tale of Tan Bu An and Siti Fatimah cannot really be said, but hopefuls can still be seen scouring the river looking some of the lost riches of that wedding gift.

With many believing the island is still haunted by the spirit of Siti Fatimah’s suitor, Kemarau remains a sleepy little outcrop of Indonesia, enveloped by the Musi River’s murky waters.

While much of the surroundings are industrial, the island remains a charming get away for those seeking quietness.

— Photos by Simon Marcus Gower